The old souq of Jbeil is the market of Byblos, a lane of stone shops between the Roman columns and the medieval gates. Jewellers, ice cream, icons and everyday groceries share buildings that sit on an ancient street grid. This is the rare souk where the Roman colonnade is still the shopping street. Walk it from the harbour toward the citadel, and detour to the churches as they appear. Evenings are the most social. As a historic place it is not a reconstruction for tourists only; people from the town still use it. It is the best free introduction to Byblos after the Sea Castle.