Beaufort Castle, Qalaat al Shaqif, crowns the rock above Arnoun in southern Lebanon and the Litani valley. A crusader fortress later fought over for centuries, it controls the passage between the coast, the south and the interior, which is why it was never just a romantic ruin. The surviving walls, the drop to the river and the wide horizon explain its reputation better than any label. Access and the condition of paths can change with the security situation in the south, so check locally before you go. When the visit is possible, it is one of the great castle experiences in Lebanon, in a different register from Byblos or Moussa Castle.